Downloads & Free Reading Options - Results

Bibliography: p. 259-260

Bibliography: p. 259-260

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

The long-term goal of this work is to develop methods for predicting the bottom topography in nearshore regions, based on characteristics of (shoaling) surface waves, measured using remote sensing methods. We are particularly interested in the surfzone region, over barred-beaches, where large wave nonlinearity and breaking occur. Earlier work used computations in a Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow model (FNPF) and dealt with monotonous topographies and periodic non-breaking waves (Grilli and Subramanya, 1996; Grilli and Horrillo, 1997; Grilli, 1998). There are 6 objectives in this project, which were listed in last years report. This year, we concentrated on: (2) implementing and calibrating a spilling breaker model in the FNPF model, and globally modeling the energy dissipated by breaking waves in the surfzone. (5) improving the model computational efficiency for large-size/long-term computations. (6) validating both shoaling calculations and depth predictions using field data from Duck SHOWEX experiment, in collaboration with Arete Assoc. (John Dugan and co-workers).

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Wave breaking is the dominant process in the dynamics of near shore water movements resulting in sediment transport. The transformation of the subsequent particle motion from irrotational to rotational motion generates vorticity and turbulence and this affects the sediment transport. An improved understanding of the location of the breaker point and characteristics of the wave under these changing parameters is essential to our understanding of short and long-term morphological beach development. This paper reports a series of 3-dimensional physical model tests to measure cross-shore and longshore current data, generated by oblique wave attack, along gravel and mixed beaches with a uniform slope and a trench. The studies described in this paper aim to improve the formulae derived by Longuet-Higgins and modified by Komar to predict the longshore current velocity at the breaking point [1,2]. New formulae for predicting the wave breaking indices under these conditions are proposed.

Wave breaking is the dominant process in the dynamics of near shore water movements resulting in sediment transport. The transformation of the subsequent particle motion from irrotational to rotational motion generates vorticity and turbulence and this affects the sediment transport. An improved understanding of the location of the breaker point and characteristics of the wave under these changing parameters is essential to our understanding of short and long-term morphological beach development. This paper reports a series of 3-dimensional physical model tests to measure cross-shore and longshore current data, generated by oblique wave attack, along gravel and mixed beaches with a uniform slope and a trench. The studies described in this paper aim to improve the formulae derived by Longuet-Higgins and modified by Komar to predict the longshore current velocity at the breaking point [1,2]. New formulae for predicting the wave breaking indices under these conditions are proposed.

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

The long-term goal of this work is to develop methods for predicting the bottom topography in nearshore regions, based on characteristics of (shoaling) surface waves, measured using remote sensing methods. We are particularly interested in the surfzone region, over barred-beaches, where large wave nonlinearity and breaking occur.

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

15 p. 28 cm

Massachusetts Maritime Academy assistant professor of emergency management Samantha Montano ("Disasterology") and oceanographer Kim McCoy ("Waves and Beaches") talked about disaster relief in the United States and the problems created by climate change. This virtual event was part of the San Diego Union-Tribune Festival of Books. Sponsor: [San Diego Union-Tribune]

This study presents a theoretical model for predictions of nearshore hydrodynamic characteristics and the local sediment transport rate along long, straight beaches. The wave may be periodic or random, the beach may be plane or barred, and the bed may be concrete or covered with movable natural sand grains. The present model must be efficient and flexible so that it can accommodate iterative computations for time-varying and, hence, arbitrary beach profiles. The nearshore hydrodynamics model consists of wave, surface roller, and nearshore current models. Both wave and surface roller models are based on simple energy balance equations and, based on these models, the nearshore current is determined from two-layer 2DH momentum equations. Coupled with a simple turbulent eddy viscosity model, vertical profiles of mean shear current are analytically obtained. The model accounts for advective interactions between waves, surface rollers, and currents and, coupled with the surface roller model, explain the shoreward shift of the peak longshore current velocity. The model applies a modified version of Madsen's (1994) wave-current bottom boundary layer model to specify the bottom boundary condition from knowledge of equivalent bottom roughness scaled by a sediment diameter. Introducing the predicted nearshore hydrodynamic characteristics, we extend the conceptual bedload and associated suspended load sediment transport models (Madsen 2001) to the surf zone. The extended sediment transport model accounts for breaking wave effects such as an increase of turbulence due to broken waves and change of the momentum force balances due to breaking waves and surface rollers. The model predicted the peaks of longshore sediment transport observed near the shoreline and the wave breaking point for plunging breakers.

This study presents a theoretical model for predictions of nearshore hydrodynamic characteristics and the local sediment transport rate along long, straight beaches. The wave may be periodic or random, the beach may be plane or barred, and the bed may be concrete or covered with movable natural sand grains. The present model must be efficient and flexible so that it can accommodate iterative computations for time-varying and, hence, arbitrary beach profiles. The nearshore hydrodynamics model consists of wave, surface roller, and nearshore current models. Both wave and surface roller models are based on simple energy balance equations and, based on these models, the nearshore current is determined from two-layer 2DH momentum equations. Coupled with a simple turbulent eddy viscosity model, vertical profiles of mean shear current are analytically obtained. The model accounts for advective interactions between waves, surface rollers, and currents and, coupled with the surface roller model, explain the shoreward shift of the peak longshore current velocity. The model applies a modified version of Madsen's (1994) wave-current bottom boundary layer model to specify the bottom boundary condition from knowledge of equivalent bottom roughness scaled by a sediment diameter. Introducing the predicted nearshore hydrodynamic characteristics, we extend the conceptual bedload and associated suspended load sediment transport models (Madsen 2001) to the surf zone. The extended sediment transport model accounts for breaking wave effects such as an increase of turbulence due to broken waves and change of the momentum force balances due to breaking waves and surface rollers. The model predicted the peaks of longshore sediment transport observed near the shoreline and the wave breaking point for plunging breakers.

Reports are presented which pertain to current investigations in general waves, beach studies, wave recorders, and wave forces on structures.