Downloads & Free Reading Options - Results

This article is from Case Reports in Ophthalmology , volume 2 . Abstract Purpose: To report a case of tarantula hairs found in the cornea and discuss treatment. Case Report: A 16-year-old male presented with a 6-week history of right ocular irritation that began after letting his pet tarantula crawl on his face. Slit-lamp examination of the right eye revealed the presence of approximately 16 dark foreign bodies that had the appearance of small hairs. The foreign bodies were removed from the nasal region of the right cornea using Jewelers forceps, and the patient was prescribed a combination neomycin, polymyxin B, and dexamethasone ointment (Maxitrol®), given 4 times per day. Results: The patient presented for follow-up 2 weeks later, with resolution of symptoms. Conclusion: Effective treatment of keratitis caused by tarantula hairs includes taking a detailed history, conducting a careful slit-lamp examination, removal of any accessible hairs, and initiation of treatment with a topical steroid as determined by the clinical picture.

Hyperios Radar assembly fits Tarantula base or Aegis base

I did a remix of this Thing... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1369643 I liked the idea of having a spot for a 3mm nut to set in. I placed Loctite in there to keep it more secure, I suppose you could also put a nut on the bottom flat side, but I didn't see the need to design it with a space for the nut down there, not needed. If you want to double nut it, screw it into the bottom flat part and secure it with a flat washer.

lock designed to prevent patio umbrella from spinning around when tilted to block the sun. designed for a 37mm umbrella pole. May work for sizes ranging from 36-38, but not tested. If you found this useful, please donate what you think it is worth to my paypal.me. Help cover the time of design. Thanks, Enjoy!

Tevo Tarantula Top Holder with Rigging Screw Fork-Fork M6 20X20 Profile Alu. The case is from OSB wood You need : 1 x M4 10m with "T" nut 4 x M3 Wood screw

I switched my printer to use dual linear rods, however, I had a small issue where the Y carriage was hitting the idler bracket in the front. I didn't want to lose my printing size so I made this little bracket adjustment to allow the idler pulleys to be brought a little more forward. even if you are using the stock wheel setup for the Y-axis this will help if tour printer hits in the front and doesn't quite make it all the way forward. I made this with PETG but I'm sure that PLA would be fine if you add more infill, it's not super critical that these are strong.

Do not recommend using a fan thicker than 15mm. Like this https://aliexpress.ru/item/2035379546.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.64b92e0eR2TFGY You need M3x10 (B3X10/BN20-Philips) screws for closing a box. You may need higher printer legs like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843736 Fotek ralay using for 220/110V heat bed. https://aliexpress.ru/item/32791179960.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.274233edy4YKag Aded .SLDPRT files for customizing.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Scale this model down to 10% ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ This is a design i made to fit my dual y system, this should work with any bed-plate, as its held in by the force of the spring. By my experience it works pretty well, and hides the wires very neatly. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Things you'll need: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ -1x Tevo Tarantula -1x CableChain_-_reduced_0.2 (2) v2.stl -1x frame_bracket.stl ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006671/files ) -14x CableChain_-_reduced_0.2.stl ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006671/files ) [Print more of the chain-thinys, because my setup might differ from yours by the length and it would be easier, if you'd print more of them right from the start.] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tevo Tarantula Pro Side Spool Holder You can fix the spindle forward, backward or dual Screw and nut M5 is needed to fix the spindle on the stem

Tevo Tarantula Pro Raspberry Pi Support. LM2596 - Step-Down Switching Regulator

Designed for 1kg filament spool. To be placed on a 2020 aluminum profile with 2 hex M4 nuts and 2 slut nuts.

The design I found that screws going all the way through the Backplate are much more stable and are resistant to stripping out the material that you print with. I remixed all parts aligning the holes after moving the center one on the Backplate to accommodate the thru hole setup. I thickened up the Tensioner Module and counter sunk the hole a bit to accept a nut so that the M4X40 screw (bolt) does not move around. The list below is the total of everything you need plus any extras. 3X M4x35 (for the Backplate) 8x M4x10 8x M4 T-Nuts 1x M4x40 Screw 2x M4 Nut 1x M4 Washer (optional) I also added a "Rear Left Bracket with Z Nut Holder" for those with Dual Z Setups. It also uses the screws and nuts that came with your Lead Screw.

Summary I made this for Tevo Tarantula, but it should fit to every 3D printer which uses 2020 aluminium frame. The lenght of the holder is 30 cm. I use this LED strip holder as main light for my printer in the night. It is made from two parts and I mounted it to 2020 tarantula frame with 4 screws and T-nuts. It is suitable for 5 LED strips and it shines a lot. I used power slide switch for control the light. (Light is turned off on the second picture.) Parts 4x M4x8 Screw 4x T-nut M4 1x slide switch (max lenght 16mm) LED Strip, glue, cables Print Settings Printer Brand: TEVO Printer: Tarantula Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 mm Infill: 20%

Modified for 20mm M3 screws.

Made an enclosure for my Tevo Tarantula. I made some changes to the original model to suit the 2040 extrusion on the printer's Z axis and better hide the power and heatbed wiring. I tried to include a clear path for convection airflow - this should be good enough based on the documentation. Lid is an exact fit in Fusion 360, so you may want to scale it down to 98-99% depending on your calibration. You will need 8x M3 screws, 4x M4's , 4x T-Nuts Edit 1: Larger bottom panel vents and rounded out the cable management holes to reduce overhangs Note: Due to a print failure in the last 2mm of the box, I used a slightly different lid design than the STL

This is a sturdy drop-on top for the Compact Case https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2461581

This is a simple bed level knob for our Tevo Tarantula. Print 4x knobs and insert the stock bed nut! It comes with the fusion 360 (.f3d) file for customization. Tip: if have problems heat up the nut with a tin welder. Enjoy!

Note - This does not support the original wheel configuration, it mounts to a MGN12H linear block. Print out: 1 of Carriage 4 of Arm 4 of Thumbscrew (now uploaded -and with the correct nut dimension) Fittings 4 M3 bolts to attach to block 4 M4 bolts and nuts to secure the arms to the carriage 4 M3 bolts and nuts to attach the heatbed to the mount and use the thunbscrew Note : Thumbscrew should sit on top of the nut so its easily adjustable.

Remixed only to resize. Original was somehow scaled up 1000% Also included the original unmodified bracket STLs

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529 Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=2280529

This is based on Elzariant's Tevo Tarantula - Power Box Adapter. I extended by 10mm to make room for internal wiring and added side mounts and trimmed inside to fit the tevos's psu better and centered the mounting holes for the "Switched Socket" Edited: added one more with fuse mount for this fuse holder: https://tinyurl.com/alifuseholder Note: Original modded with Tinkercad, so I tried my best. Edit: Added a rear bracket to hold back of PSU down

Shell that secure your display against of dust or any dirts.

Dual 40 mm fan mount. For the standard board or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2286267

Created this to stencil a tarantula on to my wife's tennis racket. Created in inkscape, extruded to scad and converted to an stl. printed using .15 layers - very flexible, but perfect for a stencil. Also good for painting tarantulas on walls, clothes, etc...

I designed this DustCap for Stepper Motor to Keep the dust away from oiled bearings. Ist slightly press-Fitting to stock stepper housing. During prints i determined a raised temperature of stepper by 0.6°C.

This Thing only for tevo tarantula 3d printer 80mm X 80mm fan. Nozzle - 0.4mm Layer Height - 0.2mm Note - Before the print plz. check print size - X-80mm Y-80mm Z-119.39mm video: https://youtu.be/uz4XGveZ6GE?t=4m23s Subscribe my youtube channel for another update: https://www.youtube.com/user/NewMaking?sub_confirmation=1

Customized version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1298948 Created with Customizer! https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=1298948

Mount your LCD on-top of the printer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4QGjUPvmT0

I designed this case for a group of kids at 3D printing camp. The case is meant to prevent children from getting to the dangerous electronics as well as to make wire management easy. The case is press fit together and has slots for zip ties if more reinforcement is necessary. As long as the tolerances are good and wire management is not a birds nest, it will fit together fine. I have also included a set of instructions which I designed to allow easy assembly of the printer as well as the power supply case. The instructions are modeled after Lego instructions and the kids were able to follow them just fine. Keep in mind that we also built a printer along side the kids during the camp to show them how the components fit together, what they are, and how they work.

Trasmissione del 28 dicembre 2010

Pen Suport for 30x30 fan for Plotter with LED support integrated.

A case standing off from the frame, placed more to the right to keep some room for the X-car. Assembly of the MKS board is a little hard if you want to have the cables underneath like I have, but it is doable. A 90 mm fan can be mounted on the cover.. The cover is compatible with the stock transparent plexiglass cover, although it does not fit nice on the edges since a different curvature is used. For assembly, you need the screws used for the standard board "case" and M4x30 screws

This mount was designed to limit the amount of offset. It holds the BlTouch between the wheels of the X-Carriage, this way you can probe automatically the whole bed. I first used the 5mm offset without shield and encountered heat issues. This is how I discovered the other mount (linked below). I've decided to add a shield, this solution seems to work ! There is two different mounts : 5/3mm offset (from the wheel axis), meaning that the 5mm is closer to the hotend :) UPDATES : 2018-03-29 : I've lowered the cable holes of the shield to avoid squeezing the cables I haven't printed ABS and I would recommend printing the mount out of ABS if you plan using high temperatures. I also left the original design since you can protect the sensor with this type of socket : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/SWMAKER-1pcs-NEWEST-Silicone-Socks-Heater-Block-cover-Silicone-Insulation-for-Replicator-Anet-Prusa-i3-MK7/32828316321.html Offsets : - 5mm OffSet : Y+18 (SENSOR_BEHIND 18) - 3mm OffSet : Y+20 (SENSOR_BEHIND 20) - to be confirmed, did't tried It's not a remix since I didn't know about this version when I design the mount but it's the same idea :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010315 Fusion 360 file attached, feel free to modify/use it !

If you purchased the Stock dual, purchased the aluminum x-carriage, and then decided to switch to a single E3D V6..... Then this is for you. If you are printing in PLA, I suggest annealing the part in your oven. But first, install the adapter on your plate and install the v6 heat fins. This way the fit stays perfect. See pictures. This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hqQqvp6a12Z

120mm fan case

I really hate looking at loose cables, so I made this extrudermount to make it possible to tuck away all the cables I'd running along the bowden tube. I designed it for my Tevo Tarantula with standard extruder but I guess it fits the other Tarantula extruders and alot of other printers aswell. The mount also has a slot on the left side so that you're able to turn your motor around, have its connector pointing towards the frame and hide the cable from that aswell. Would really like some feedback on this as it's the first thing i'm uploading! Here's a remix of thingirobs z-bracket which I designed to go along with this extruder mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2725363

This is bracket and Z motor mounts for Tevo Tarantula. Printed with PLA, and 40% infill at least for best rigidity.

This is a Mosfet case designed for the mosfet in link below. It also has a 30mm fan. I used a 5v fan with a 43ohm resistor to step from 12v down to 5v Mosfet was from https://geek.wish.com/c/5858ce389733f822208a22af The lid can be redesigned to remove the "Tevo Tarantula" and the case was designed in 123D Design with the original file available to modify.

I've remixed thingirob's adjustable Z endstop and added a mounting bracket for the microswitch, so that you can mount it in front - which should make it easier to adjust. Mostly because I run my lead screw in the middle of the 2040 extrusion and couldn't mount it there, so I had to figure out another way to install an adjustable screw. You will need : - M5 long bolt and nut, my tarantula came with extras of these - zip tie (also included in the box) to secure the wires so they don't get caught in your Y-carriage or thumbwheels. - M4 bolts and T-nuts - 1x extruder spring (I guess if you use the Tevo Titan, you can cannibalise the one from the blue-and-gold stock extruder)

hello All! this is a X carriage for tevo tarantula, it mount on mgn12h and provide the support for e3d v6 hot end, on the side there is the support for a radial fan, I use this as fun duct https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620630 many thanks to Tevo Stampanti 3D Italia

All the original acrylic parts were available except for this one. Reworked version of the design by https://www.thingiverse.com/Baron_Nounours/about **Best used with this** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2251730 **and this for dual Z** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2379659 Ideal when you build your own dual Z kit.

Hi everyone, Here is an easy motor mount for the bowden extruder of the Tevo Tarantula. Great to use with the Spool holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2627740 :::UPDATE 06/08/2018::: Feel free to download the .STEP files, improve the design and please share the result with all the 3D print community

This is the fan duct i'm using now looks like it's working pretty well for me, i decided to print in a high quality just to make him last as long as possible ... maybe i did it wrong... i'm new to 3d printing. Include a grid to cover the fan on top avoiding any trouble with rotating parts (that was more a waste of time than a good grid you can make it better but if u r lazy it's already set up and may be used as a test printing part.

this is PSU cover, that has space for a rocker switch and a C14 connector, this enables you to switch on and of the printer without disconnecting it and been able to use a standard PC AC cord. Also like alpakay i've included the solidworks file so you can edit it if you need something else

Summary The system is still in progress This my version of inverted z system for Tevo Tarantula. My design is inspired by "Tevo Tarantula Inverted Dual Z System by RVTMSW" I tried to make it as simple as possible (save plastics). You should be able to print this without need of supports. I created 4 different designs, should suit most situations. (The defaults setup please use file 1 and file 3) This is my beta version, please let me know if you think there is a way that I can make it better. Print Settings Printer: Tevo Tarantula Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.20mm Infill: 30% Notes: This is the beta version. still improving. How I Designed This The system is still in progress

I made a fan duct that in my opinion works better than the stock one.

this is for the tevo tarantula i3 printer that has a 20x20 extrustion should work on any other horizontal setup http://amzn.com/B0152FU35Y is a link to the laser body it is a popular size one this is a remix between 2 parts and tinkercad to put them together ...

Based on color-magnitude diagrams (CMDs) from the Hubble Space Telescope Hubble Tarantula Treasury Project (HTTP) survey, we present the star formation history (SFH) of Hodge~301, the oldest star cluster in the Tarantula Nebula. The HTTP photometry extends faint enough to reach, for the first time, the cluster pre-main sequence (PMS) turn-on, where the PMS joins the main sequence. Using the location of this feature, along with synthetic CMDs generated with the latest PARSEC models, we find that Hodge~301 is older than previously thought, with an age between 26.5 and 31.5 Myr. From this age, we also estimate that between 38 and 61 supernovae Type-II exploded in the region. The same age is derived from the main sequence turn-off, whereas the age derived from the post-main sequence stars is younger and between 20 and 25 Myr. Other relevant parameters are a total stellar mass of $\approx 8800\,\pm 800$M$_{\odot}$ and average reddening E(B$-$V) $\approx 0.22-0.24$ mag, with a differential reddening $\delta$E(B$-$V)$\approx 0.04$ mag.

I made this design on base of the fanduct by Elzariant. I just added a mount for the SG90 servo to use it for auto bed leveling. I also added a single version of the SG90 Mount, so you can glue / solvent weld the part to your existing fanduct / hotend and my configuration.h file for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fFdSMcWNZM&feature=youtu.be ###What do you need? - SG90 servo (and the accessoires it came with) - the printed parts (arm + servo mount) - a ready to use configuration of Marlin or your prefered firmware

DaP 018 http://dapstation.bandcamp.com/