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Idea behind heavy duty--- This episode is sponsored by - Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/todd-jones35/support

SBE Crane offers high-performance electric wire rope hoists designed for durability, safety, and efficiency. Engineered to handle heavy loads with precision, our hoists are ideal for manufacturing, construction, warehousing, and more. As one of India’s leading EOT crane manufacturers, we deliver customized lifting solutions that meet the highest industry standards. Trust SBE Crane for reliable performance and unmatched service.

Napier Heavy Duty Arched Toolbar Cultivators and Attachments Model BW Series;  instruction Book and Parts List. Published by Napier Brothers Limited, Dalby, Queensland, Australia; February 1970. Dimensions are: 132 millimeters width by 196 millimeters height, weight 20.8 grams, and 16 pages. This Digital work was created by Gerard Arthus and is in the Public Domain under the Creative Commons License.  Any questions regarding this item should be directed to [email protected] . For more information Go to this site: http://OpenEducation.org to find out more about the digitization of this item and the on-going attempt to help make 'Knowledge' and 'Information' available to everyone, anywhere, at any time, for no cost. There are many forces at work which are attempting to turn 'Public Domain' information into a commodity which some can milk for a profit. This parasitic use of information which should be freely available for all to access is an Intellectual Crime and should not be tolerated. Hi-resolution images included. 

- GM Posts Mixed 2018 Earnings- Pickup War Heating Up- Toyota and Nissan Get Left Behind in Pickup War- Chevy Reveals Heavy-Duty Silverado- Are Passenger Car Sales Finally Bottoming Out?- Renault-Nissan and Waymo Partner on AVs- Brose Power Liftgate- Is This Rivian's Design Inspiration?

Secure your vehicle with confidence using these heavy-duty 3333 lb wheel straps. Built for strength and durability, they keep cars firmly in place during transport. Ideal for trailers, tow trucks, and car haulers. Easy to use and weather-resistant. BUY NOW

Stashman05.Heavy_Duty_Cuff.2

Remix of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:99582 for Ulticampy.

Made the mount so a couple of screws can make this mountable everywhere.

I needed some hooks for my Heavy Duty Shelving and decided to make some The Hook is 27.5mm long 10mm wide and 15mm high

Direct Drive Extruder, for use with MK8 Drive gear. For use with 1.75mm Filament and the MK8 Drive Gear Remixed from shmorgan

I have loads of 40mm fans, and decided to make an adaptor for this design, as i like the design but i had no 50mm fans. i guess it would work for other designs, where a 40mm fan is to be fitted in a 50mm fan hole. its tight enough for no need of screws to fit, compression fit.

I have loads of 40mm fans, and decided to make an adaptor for this design, as i like the design but i had no 50mm fans. i guess it would work for other designs, where a 40mm fan is to be fitted in a 50mm fan hole. its tight enough for no need of screws to fit, compression fit.

This is a heavy duty replacement rope light clip. The cheap plastic ones that come with the rope lights get brittle and easily break after a season or two outdoors. I printed these out of ABS and the have lasted a few seasons so far. _______________________________ If you have any questions or problems with the files or fitment of the parts just let me know and I will try to fix them. **Remember to tip your ~~waiters~~ designers if you like the service.... thanks for looking**

This is an upgraded version of my earlier version of my technician's wallet: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656147 Source files for editing can be downloaded from the original version. Upgrades include: * One of the micro SD slots has been expanded by 1mm to allow the use of a hard backed NFC tag. * The top and bottom have been thickened by 1mm for greater strength * All tolerances checked and refines ever so slightly. Calibration is recommended before printing This wallet is intended to contain the following: 7 X credit/debit cards (9 without wallet ninja and business card) 1 X Micro NFC Tag 1 X business card 1 X wallet Ninja 3 X micro SD cards (+1 in the adaptor)(+1 in USB micro SD reader) 1 X Standards SD card (Or SD to micro adaptor) 1 X micro USB OTG adaptor 1 X 20mm paperclip 1 X floss pick 1 X ring up to X 1/2 (wedding or other) 1 X USB powered dimmable lamp 1 X USB Micro SD card reader 1 X USB Nano Wifi Adaptor 1 X Sandisk Nano USB stick (64/128/256GB types) 1 X Verbatim Nano Ultra thin USB stick (32/64 GB types)

inspired by http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12153 (mount bit) added shoulders so head of screws would not ride on back of spool. This was done by my 10yr old, who knows sketchup better than I do, in about 5minutes

These are replacement prints for the Sintron 3D printer to hold the MK8 extruder also included is a heavier version to protect against heat warp-age.

A simple mount for the Thorlabs style 30 mm cage system that is based on 6 mm diameter rods. It either mounts a cage onto a post or plate with an M4 screw or bolt, or it can even join two cage systems together because of the pairs of cage-rod clamps.

An S-hook designed to hold heavier objects.

This is a useful carabiner clip designs which you can make on a consumer desktop 3D printer. *Warning, not to be used for climbing!*

We had the need of a heavy duty clamp so to Fusion 360 we turned and designed this one! It uses a 1/4-20 bolt and wing nut to cinch the two half's together and there are two modeled 1/4-20 openings on the backside of the clamp to attach what ever is need. Don't forget our YouTube channel here: http://YouTube.DIY3DTech.com Also if you want to see what we are up to daily which you do right? Check out our regular **YouTube Blog posts** at: http://diy3dtech.com/blog You can also follow us on **Instagram** at: https://www.instagram.com/diy3dtech/ Or read our posts on **tumlr** here: https://www.tumblr.com/blog/diy3dtech **Major Favor:** if you make one of these please post the Make and share it with the community :-) . Also, **please follow us on Thingiverse and give this a like if this came in handy **and for more information on this project, please visit us at http://www.DIY3DTech.com as well as subscribe to our YouTube Channel at http://YouTube.DIY3DTech.com along with a visit to our drone site and YouTube channel at http://video-drone.DIY3DTech.com If you are looking for one of a kind swag shop for yourself or a Maker Geek friend, visit our **swag shop** at http://Swag.DIY3DTech.com for unique 3D Printing, Laser Cutting and CNC swag! Too, if you want a behind the scene look at what we are working on be sure to follow us on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/diy3dtech/)!

Designed for use Without nuts, decided it was cleaner this way Print vertically 0.1mm layer height is the best finish, 0.2 works but this being the front of your printer, looks would matter (your call) Any m3 screws longer than the fan width +3mm should work. Screw screws into spacer BEFORE use with the fans (threads the holes) I use rubber M3 washers between the screw-fans and fans-spacer I doubt it makes a difference but I have a lot of M3 washers May require a strong grip to initially thread the holes. Use a desk for help as shown Changes 03/03/2020 Changed the inner diameter to be 3.1mm I believe as I didnt realise how tight screwing them in was before. Extended it as im not using that hotend anymore but ive exported all the cad and put it here so measure your own length (with a ruler), and set the boss extrusion to HALF of that value due to the mirror feature later on.

When my fans go 100%, the vibration make BLTouch deploy during printing, so I just smashed the heatsink mount stl with the remix of keevah and made this, so there are less vibrations. The protector for BLTouch: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3762809 the offset is 26mm left 16mm front in my case. I don't know if it works with volcano or different heatsink fan than the stock one.

I'm making a new hex tarp and forgot to order the Triangles that connect the grosgrain to the tie out or carabiner so having access to a 3D printer I made some. I have broken some with a pull scale and they all snapped between 60-70 pound of pull.

Document number CIA-RDP82-00457R014900310007-0 declassified and released through the CIA's CREST database. Previously available only on four computers located outside of Washington D.C., the Agency was successfully pressured into putting the files online as a result of a MuckRock lawsuit and the efforts of Emma Best. The metadata was collected by Data.World, and the files are now being archived and made text searchable by the Internet Archive.

It's a scale model (1/32) of a 4 truck, 8 axle flat car suited for 45mm tracks (Gauge I). These cars are used in North America to move big and heavy loads. Having 8 axles on the car helps to spread the weight on the rails. With the trucks mounted on rotating beams, this car can take very tight curves (tested on 600 mm radius curves).

This is an S Hook. It's designed to be able to hold a heavy winter coat. I will try to make stronger versions if this one fails. I designed it to be able to fit on anything with a diameter of less than 7mm. There is a picture of how I use it in my house. You can use it some other way. Post pictures of how you use it to give people ideas.

This a part of another project - a heavy duty antenna tracker. As the titles of the thing states, it is a mount for the EagleEyes ground station on heavy duty tripod ( Omegon tripod for telescopes).

This project is an attempt to design customized heavy-duty eyepiece containers. My goal is to be able to throw my eyepieces into a bag without having a large protective case for them. So far I have modeled my Explore Scientific 82 series eyepieces but I would like to be able to include my 2" and 100 series as well. I am looking for community input and suggestions. Ideally this would be a parameter based model but I have no experience with that yet.

Similar to my earlier designed spool holder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:253731) for the UP! Plus Printer by PP3DP but now in a "heavy duty" version. Designed to load spools with 1 kg of filament, a height of 95 mm and a hole diameter of 55 mm. First of six videos showing the printing of this part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7BqHPZ8pus

My filament spool fell once and took down the Raspberry Pi that was running the print via Octopi. "Never more" I thought and started designing this over the top heavy duty spool holder! There are 3 inserts for optional magnets on the bottom.

Only a small adjustment for the fang - CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-cover__40mm-fan_v1_Fang-Version https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 - CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount-body_v1.stl https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766873 -Standard_Rock_Solid_Fang_stl

This is my heavy duty Z motor mount with ball bearing support. This is a drop in replacement to my other Z motor mount. The anti Z wobble that fit on this mount is coming soon, stay tune.

This remix supports Heavy Duty Fang or OEM fang upgrades! Base has been changed to handle a M3 screw! thanks to the original creator! great job! Follow me on YoutTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVviogcuKoMk1KSV-JvRsSw

Remix of Heavy Duty Spool Holder - Modified base to allow mounting to a 2020 extrusion cross-brace above the printer. May limit Z-height with certain direct drive extruder setups. Thank you tonyl321 for the original design

Case for soldering iron TS 100. With holder of iron when soldering. Made some alterations to initial design of case: 1) All walls 2.4 mm. I damaged my case when I stored it in tool box; 2) Included holder with 608 bearing. You can take it from skateboard or spinner; 3) Piece of filament is used to assemble box. Just insert it in hinge; 4) No magnets required. I used model made by GunSmoker. (See in remix list) And I included model in Fusion 360 so that you can make alterations. Or you can ask me to change something. I printed all with SBS plastic, it is soft. But in ABS of PLA it might be hard to place soldering iron in case.

Created a heavy duty wall bracket to hang a bunch of stuff. part was created in solidworks.

Hi ! Here are Heavy Duty replacement Screws intended to secure the charging station to the ground. Print in PETG or ABS because PLA is biodegradable Fill 100% You dont have allen key adapted ? Don't matter, use the Hex side of a bit holder to screw it. Check also my battery pack replacement for the Automower.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3255161 P.S. Please Post your print ! I spend hours to design the object, please give me 2 min to post your realisation ;) Happy Printing ! Renaud That's all ! Please post your makes ! These items could be useful too for your Automower : Heavy duty Wire Spike https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4351773 Husqvarna Automower Cable Guide Junction Box for Silicon https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3677547

This design is parametric to fit whatever mirror/screw size you want. See the link for the code below. The included OBJ is for when I mounted a 3x5' mirror vertically on a rough cinder block surface. So, I used a total of six clips to support the weight, keep it in place, and stop it from vibrating when weights get dropped. Two on each the top and bottom (about 3" from the ends), and then one on each side (right in the middle). The clips include a slight standoff to make up for the the shit mortar job, which sticks out beyond the wall up to 1/4" in some places. Prior to a remodling, I had a similar mirror which was mounted on plywood (for the standoff) screwed into the block, then held in with the standard chintzy clear plastic clips. It would rattle all the time though, so I ended up shiming it with newspaper to remove the vibrations. Janky as fuck. That mirror broke when taking it out of the gym (Fuck! 7 years bad gains!), so as long as I was redoing it, I was going to redo it right. Nearly two years later, I'm finally getting around to publishing the files. And tbh, my gains have been pretty shit. Hah. My notes say I printed this with support, 50% infill, and a slightly thicker wall thickness (5 layers, because the plastic is cheap and the mirror wasn't, so better safe than sorry). Has held up great, and no vibrations whatsoever. If you're curious, [this is the mirror](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-36-in-W-x-60-in-L-Polished-Edge-Bath-Mirror-81178/205513132). I have no idea why Home Depot put it in the "bath" section. It clearly belongs in the gym. This object was parametrically designed using Python, FreeCAD, and CadQuery, so the [code and yet more documentation is available here](https://github.com/swolebro/caddyshack). [Here's a perma-link to the code that made these files specifically](https://github.com/swolebro/caddyshack/tree/5e92a57f3f4442845cf9fb842bd7152e9568a03b/scripts/gym). There may have been updates/improvements/reorganizing done since then, however, so I suggest you take a look at the latest revisions too. Pretty much any design on the git project should be on my Thingiverse profile as well. Some (but not all) of my designs also have videos to go with them, which I am assembling into a [YouTube playlist here](https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3QmsrRzn3PynVNeJ7LHVtZS).

This mini tripod can handle quit heavy loads. It is to be printed as shown in the images. The little nut just prevents the Tripod from not falling apart when nothing is mounted. It is quit fiddly to install. You can use a stitching awl to turn in. Scaling in x and y direction might also help if it comes out to tight. Or you can just omit it. You need a 1/4-20 UNC 2" countersink screw to mount everything together. You can use the [spigot adapter](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4131143) to mount a ring light or so.

Print it in TPU with support

The objective of this program is to develop an advanced high temperature oxide structural ceramic for application to the heavy duty diesel engine. The approach is to employ transformation toughening by additions of ZrO.5HfO.5O2 solid solution to the oxide ceramics, mullite (2Al2O3S2SiO2) and alumina (Al2O3). The study is planned for three phases, each 12 months in duration. This report covers Phase 1. During this period, processing techniques were developed to incorporate the ZrO.5HfO.5O2 solid solution in the matrices while retaining the necessary metastable tetragonal phase. Modulus of rupture and of elasticity, coefficient of thermal expansion, fracture toughness by indent technique and thermal diffusivity of representative specimens were measured. In Phase 2, the process will be improved to provide higher mechanical strength and to define the techniques for scale up to component size. In Phase 3, full scale component prototypes will be fabri-]cated.

Here is my adaptation of awesome cr-10 heavy duty mount for Wanhao i3mini. I've modeled it to get access to a bunch of cool cr-10 upgrades. Mostly for awesome fang part cooling duct. It definitely reduces build plate width a bit, but it is eliminated using more compact X belt mount. It definitely weights more, otherwise this printer will never give you acceptable quality on high speeds. But you will get best part cooling for this printer and access to some cr-10 modes. I've used 12v 5015 and 12v 40mm noctua parallel circuit powering but this printer firmware could be upgraded to get software fan control. Most of provided models could be printed with minor custom supports. Standard_Rock_Solid_Fang_.stl, E3d_V6_Locking_part.stl and fan_duct_40mm_final.stl don't need them at all. You will need longer m3 bolts to mount hotend cover. Unfortunately Thingiverse remix sources editing is not functioning at the moment, so here are links to source projects: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 CR-10 Heavy Duty customizable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766873 Rock Solid Cr-10 E3d V6 5015 Fang with 40mm fan https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2950157 wanhao i3 mini X carriage belt tension https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3396331 Wanhao i3 Mini hotend bracket & duct conversion https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:754755 40mm fan duct for E3D-V6

----About This Model---- Extremely tough/rigid Din rail with mounting holes. Stronger than low quality metal din rails. Fits any standard TS-35mm compatible Din type mounted devices like MCCB breakers, contactors, electrical equipment etc. ITS REALLY STRONG, your MCBs will break before this rail does. Din devices are in 18mm widths. A standard 2p MCCB breaker is 2 spaces so its 36mm wide. Customize this Din rail to meet your needs. The design is not directly following a typical folded metal TS-35 din rail. It has been specifically designed to be manufactured on a 3D printer and is far stronger than if it was made like a metal Din rail, though it perfectly fits all Din rail type devices. It has chamfered holes by which the fasteners make attachments, this is user configurable. ----About The Model Format---- This file is in FreeCAD format, why? Because STL files can be very low res, are often corrupted and are difficult to modify. Also because FreeCAD can be easily adjusted to automatically generate you a customized part just by modifying numbers on a spreadsheet. Don't be intimidated, even a complete beginner can open FreeCAD and change a value in a spreadsheet to adjust the part as needed. Its free to download and works in Linux, Mac and Widows 10. ----About FreeCAD--- Please READ First time using FreeCAD? Set the Model resolution first before opening any file. -go to Edit, Preferences, Workbenches, Part Design, Click Load Now, Then click Part Design on the far left column, click Shape View, set Maximum Deviation to %0.01, click ok, done. Open this file in FreeCAD, you will see the spreadsheet on the left menu, simply click it and adjust the settings as per your need. Then click back onto the body to confirm your changes. -You can click the ruler icon to measure things if you need. -I suggest you click the "CAD" button in the very bottom right and set to Gesture mode -If your all set, Click the Body and then press Control+E to export the body as an AMF file, all slicers can accept that format, its a compressed STL. you can specify the length, depth (though 7.5mm is standard for TS-35), how many holes, size of hole and chamfering of the holes. By default the holes are chamfered to flushly sit a standard #6 or #8 gypsum/wood screw. ----Rant---- Autodesk gives me the CREEPS. I have to upload my design to their server just to export as an STL? That's so arbitrary and obnoxious; the only possible explanation for that is they want to peek at everything you do. Could they be any more obvious; ill pass. Always be cautious with big corporate handouts, nothing is free unless its opensource. FreeCAD 0.20 easily accommodates all of my commercial requirements; I have absolutely no need or use for Fusion360. If you actually took the few days needed to learn FreeCAD you would not be disadvantaged by abandoning Fusion360 altogether. My first CAD program ever was Fusion360, i hated the interface and discovered it could not even do tapered threads which was my main need. I discovered FreeCAD could do tapered threads so I learned it and never even considered Fusion 360 again, also due to privacy concerns. ----Part Material Advise---- DO NOT use PLA. PLA is nearly a worthless material for anything that needs to bare a load; PLA deforms over time even at low temps (far below the deformation temp). PETG might be ok if it never comes into contact with direct sunlight. PETG creeps/sags big time when becoming warm under load even at ~45c. DO NOT use PETG outdoors, it WILL deform in direct sunlight in areas with warm climate. Indoor may be acceptable but keep in mind the mechanical properties of PETG make it particularly lousy in general for making brackets/clamps etc. ABS or ASA is a far better materiel because even at warm temps they don't have the sag/creeping properties like that of PETG. ----My Experience and the Purpose of my Projects ---- There are many approaches to 3D printing. My approach is solely centered around professional additive manufacturing in general; using low cost machines with minimal or no modifications. Nearly all my machines are the Ender 3 Pro with 1mm nozzle. Only mods are capricorn, bowden tube and very very tight bed springs. I am a huge fan of the OE Creality buildtec buildplate surface. I use it for ASA, ABS, Nylon 12, TPU and PETG with no coatings and i have no issues whatsoever. Mostly with buildtec the problem is too much adhesion. Why do I only use 1mm nozzles(or larger)? Wider layers produce stronger commercial grade products and in less time. It is extremely uncommon that commercial grade parts would require a smaller nozzle. I have never in 1.5 years had to use a smaller nozzle. Though some people might really need a smaller nozzle, there ins't much info on professional manufacturing with 1mm nozzles or larger. So I hope to share as much as I can with others because 1mm nozzles are difficult to master and settings are very important. It's far preferable to go thick, wide and slow than it is to go narrow, thin and fast. Not only in terms of strength and quality but also speed is generally better. For novelty sake, do what you want but for professional additive manufacturing, reproducibility, strength to material usage, machine wear and tear and final quality are more critical than in the hobby world. Recommendations for printing this part: Use a 1mm nozzle. PrusaSlicer is generally much better than Cura in my opinion. ----Relevant print settings---- No supports obviously Z offset -0.1mm PETG / -0.07 or -0.05mm for ASA Z Hop 1mm retract 4.5mm @ 40mm/s deretract 45mm/2 Perimeters 40mm/s Perimeters 35mm/s (external) GapFill 40mm/s Infill 45mm/s Accelerations: First layer 85mm/s2 perimeters 100mm/s2 briging 50mm/s2 infill 600mm/s2 travel 1500mm/s2 first layer height, PETG 0.35mm / ASA or ABS 0.2mm layer height thereafter 0.5mm PETG / 0.22-0.28mm for ASA 3 bottom layers, 4 top layers Grid infill %35 (not Lines, its weaker) Bridge speed 15mm/s Bridge Acceleration 50 mm/s2 Ironing Enabled - %10 Flow, 0.2mm spacing "only retract when crossing perimeters" setting under infill settings MUST be disabled

This is a sturdy, heavy hanger for large bags, backpacks, and the like. ## How much weight can it hold? I use it for holding a 15+lb backpack. I have not destructively tested how much weight it can bear, but I believe it can easily hold double the weight of the backpack (estimated 30+ lbs). ## Why is this hanger different? This hanger is meant to be printed support-free in ABS. It is a long-lasting wall-installation that blends in with a normal home. *NOTE:* The hangers in the photo were printed in ABS. I cannot guarantee how much weight they will bear with PLA+. I recommend against PETG due to its flexibility.

Hello my friend! Please visit my new website https://kompaswork.ru/stati.html read my articles and publications. Welcome to my YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChrjsTzAQM8Mj8__pwc4gCg/videos like and comment. I wish you health, happiness and good luck. Thanks!

Halter für Schwerlastregal mit einem Lochabstand von 25mm mit einer Aussparung für einen Vierkantstab 20x20 mm bzw. Rundstab Ø15mm (Baumarkt). Bei hoher Belastung eventuell mit einem Kabelbinder absichern. Holder for heavy-duty shelf with a hole spacing of 25mm with a recess for a square rod 20x20 mm or round rod Ø15mm (DIY store). In case of high load, possibly secure with a cable tie.

The original [Heavy Duty Tripod Ball Head](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2475495) by Empiricus is an excellent and truly practical design. I've converted the mount to 10 mm to utilize standard metric bolt and nut. In this repository you will only find parts for the conversion. Get the rest from the original link. You'll also need a 10x50 - 60 screw for the ball and a m10 nut for the lower part. Insert the nut in the lower part by pausing the print and use your slicers ability to change infill with an stl file (infill mod). The ball_screw and hex_socket are optional.

Pehaka Heavy Duty Cut-Off Bandsaws, Petzing & Hartmann, Kassel-B. Maschinenfabrik, Continental Machine Tool Co., 1231 West Fifth Street, Los Angeles, California, 1966.

In the original case made by Vokgear the Pi would reach 50-60° Celsius when doing heavy disk emulation work such as disk duplication. This allows for cooling vented from the bottom across the CPU. This also covers any unnecessary ports to keep air flowing to the CPU. These changes cut the CPU temperature down to 40° Celsius. This case includes: - A legend on the front of the case to tell you which each button does - Separate mount for the OLED screen since each manufacturer tends to have different board dimensions. The included washers are used to keep mount in place. - Fan hole made for a standard 30x30 fan - A case top choice for either 2mm knurled nuts or 2mm threaded screws - Dropped any legally used names or trademarks from the case To install the fan you will need to wire up 5v/GND. I cut 2x male Dupont connector lead and attached it to Pins 4 (5v) and 6 (GND) of the hat. This worked well for my needs.

If you find this thing useful, please consider sending a tip. :) https://paypal.me/cdsmakestuff XL Version for the BIG spools! Adjustable roller will accept up to a 5KG spool and down to a 1KG spool. Easy to print and assemble --------HARDWARE--------- 1/2" PVC Pipe for roller - 164-164.5mm long - x2 608 "Skate" Bearings - x4 3/16" (8mm) x 1" (25mm) Wood Dowel - x4 Masking Tape Glue (super glue, gloop, epoxy, whatever works) 10mm Non-Skid Self Adhesive Silicone or Rubber Pads - x4 --------PRINTED PARTS------- Sides - 1 of each Ends Roller Endcap --------TOOLS------- Saw to cut PVC (must be cut as square as possible) Saw to cut Wooden Dowel *Fine tooth hobby saw will work well for both the above X-acto or similar hobby knife --------TIPS / INFO-------- PRINTING: Print settings (recommended min. w/ 0.4mm nozzle) - PLA - 3 walls, 4 bottom, 4 top, 20% infill. Acetone and paper towel will quickly and easily clean up the PVC pipe parts. The ends of the PVC pipe need to be cut as squarely as possible to ensure smooth rolling. Two layers of masking tape on the flat side of the roller endcap act as a shim for the bearing (see photo). You may or may not need to glue the sides to the end pieces depending on fitment… I preferred to glue them wanting a permanent joint.